Sheer, unadulterated drama… that’s the Azores, a group of ancient volcanic islands whose violent geological past has left immense scars on the landscape. It’s all about the archipelago’s location, set right in the middle of the Atlantic, half way between the USA and Portugal, astride the triple junction of the Eurasian, American and African tectonic plates deep under the Atlantic Ocean. The plates’ movements have created nine major Azores islands – São Miguel, Santa Maria, Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico, Faial, Flores and Corvo.
The islands’ location on top of these huge faults, rifts and plates has given rise to their fertile soils, fascinating landscapes and rich fauna and flora, a combination that once seen is never forgotten. If you fancy discovering what it feels like to live in a place that looks and feels a lot like Jurassic Park, this is your destination.
If you love natural beauty this is the perfect place to grab your boots, dress for hiking and go explore the volcanoes that have shaped the Azores into the breathtaking holiday destination they are.
Discovering the Azores volcanoes
The Azores archipelago features a total of 26 active volcanoes, eight of which are under the ocean. The first time humans recorded an eruption was on Furnas Volcano, which blew its top for four years between 1439 and 1443. By the time it had calmed back down, São Miguel Island had been settled.
The only island without active volcanoes is Santa Maria, and while the rest have been dormant for a long time they could erupt t any point. At the centre of all the activity is the Terceira rift, formed 36 million years ago and slowly, steadily moving south, the slowest of its kind on the planet.
Sete Cidades Massif – The Seven Cities Volcano
The Sete Cidades volcano lies to the east of São Miguel, a total area of 110 square kilometres with a lot more going on underneath, extending to 70 cubic kilometres. Since it first formed over 210,000 years ago the volcanic area has kept on growing at a rate of about 0.02 – 0.03 cubic kilometres a century.
This is the only formation of its kind on earth, with a total of four magnificent lakes and a nearly perfect circular crater a full 3 miles across, soaring to a height of 400m. All this natural drama is enhanced by thrilling volcanic cones, lava domes and flow deposits along with two stunningly lovely crater lakes, one with blue water and the other distinctly green. There’s a story behind the colours: once upon a time a princess and her shepherd lover were separated and the lakes mirror the colour of their heartbroken eyes.
Mount Pico – One of the seven natural wonders of Portugal
Pico island is one of the official seven Natural Wonders of Portugal, home to 2351m high Pico mountain, Portugal’s highest point. The crater is awe-inspiring 700m around the perimeter and 30m deep with a 70m high volcanic cone.
Climb to the top for views to die for, like something out of a fairytale. Or drive up to the 1200m point and walk from there. Either way the vivid blues of the ocean, the greens of the lush vegetation and the deep blue sky make it a sight you’ll never forget, with the other islands set far below like little jewels. The views really are extraordinary.
Bocas de Fogo – Mouths of Fire
You’ll find the Mouths of Fire on magnificent São Jorge Island, near Urzelina. The Bogas blew its top in spring 1808, killing 30 people and destroying everything in its path thanks to an enormous flat plain of molten basalt that was belched out of the earth. Luckily it was the last such ‘open air’ eruption in the Azores so you can probably rest easy!
Spotting signs of volcanic activity on the islands
The islands’ vivid green vegetation thrives on the rich soil, and there are beautiful thermal pools to enjoy a dip in. The dark grey stone used in the old buildings is volcanic rock, and the black beaches are made from the same rock worn down over aeons into sand. The heat from the iron-rich thermal springs comes from deep under the surface.
In the Furnas area people have traditionally cooked Azores stew underground, packing the vegetables and meat underground for as long as seven hours while it slowly cooks. While the sound of sulphur-flavoured casserole might not sound that great, it’s actually a taste sensation. You can even head for Terceira and São Jorge to play in natural stone pools full of water heated by the volcanic rock.
The island of Faial’s volcanic past is quite something as well. A violent underwater volcano called Capelinhos erupted in the 1950s, sending half the population scurrying off-island to safety. Now there’s a fascinating visitor centre there where you can learn more about vulcanism in the Azores.
You can experience all this natural wonder and more up close and personal via the stunning hiking trails that wind around every island. Expect lagoons inside extinct volcanoes and huge cascades of water flowing off the edge of mountains.
If you have the energy and strength, go visit Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo in São Jorge, only accessible by foot on the magnificent Caldeira de Santo Cristo Trail, kicking off at Serra do Topo. As you gradually descend you’ll fall in love with the tiny town, quaint homes, church and great big lagoon. Alternatively you can get there on a quad bike from Fajã dos Cubres. Because there’s no internet or phone signals there, it’s a genuine escape from modern life.
All this natural wonder comes with risks, of course, so you’ll need to apply common sense. The mountains are no place for flip-flops, you’ll need a light waterproof, and it’s your job not to either disturb the wildlife or damage the plants – it’s best to stick to the trails, which are designed with safety as well as the best views in mind.
Volcanic lagoons look really cool and lovely but you can’t really swim in them, it’s just not safe. Each lagoon has its own safety signage, and because the weather can change shockingly fast, you’ll want to check the forecast before you start hiking.
A list of awe-inspiring Azores volcanoes
- Pico Volcano is defined as a stratovolcano and lavadome. 2351m high and dormant, it’s the highest volcano in the archipelago
- The entire Picos Volcanic System is defined as Pyroclastic cones 350m high, currently dormant
- Agua De Pau Volcano comprises a stratovolcano, caldera, and a 947m lava dome, currently dormant. Set in the centre of Sao Miguel Island, there’s a huge outer caldera dating back 30,000 to 45,000 years and a newer inner caldera dating back 15,000 years
- São Jorge Volcano comes with vast 1053m fissure vents and is dormant
- Flores Volcano is a stratovolcano with 915m phreatomagmatic craters, currently dormant
- Corvo Volcano is a stratovolcano with a caldera, 715m high and currently dormant
- Sete Cidades Volcano comprises a stratovolcano, caldera, and pyroclastic cones 856m up. It’s dormant. The caldera at the top is 5km wide, with two caldera lakes – this is one of the most beautiful viewpoints of the whole island group
- Furnas Volcano is an 805m high stratovolcano that’s dormant
- Don Joao De Castro Bank Volcano is a submarine volcano, currently dormant
- Fajã De Cima Volcano offers almost 200 curious cinder cones and reaches a height of 350m, currently dormant
- Graciosa Volcano is a 402m high stratovolcano that’s mostly dormant with a few exciting active fumaroles
- Fayal Volcano is a dormant 1043m stratovolcano and lavadome
- Monaco Bank Volcano is another submarine volcano, 197m high and currently dormant
- Terceira Volcano is a stratovolcano with a caldera and lavadomes, 1023m high and dormant at the moment
There are fascinating Azores tours to explore every island and your mind will be blown again and again, amazed every time by each emerging view and vista.
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